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Down to the Sea for Ships
THE ROMANCE AND THE PERIL OF THE SEA is one of the dominant motifs creating Britain’s identity and forging her history. For the heritage traveler, there is no better way of unpacking that theme than with visits to the great ships that between them have seen such a cross-section of British history. For a real concentration of berths, hie thee to Portsmouth’s Historic Dockyards, but most any port will do. Missing the Mary Rose? See page 24.
1 RRS DISCOVERY, DUNDEE
The first scientific research ship in the world was built here at Discovery Point for Robert Falcon Scott’s Antarctic expeditions. Now in drydock, Discovery makes a fascinating visit, with a superb visitor center unpacking Scott’s historic and fateful voyages.
2 MATTHEW, BRISTOL
Take a sail on the Matthew, a replica of the ship in which John cabot discovered north America in 1497. It’s a sound vessel, but few of us today would want to cross the Atlantic in it. Matthew moors at Princes Wharf in Bristol Habour for visits aboard.
3 HMS WARRIOR, PORTSMOUTH
This was the peacemaker. Launched in 1860, the world’s first iron-hulled, steam battleship made all others obsolete. HMS Warrior enforced the pax Britannia for more than a decade and never fired her guns in anger. She’s in pristine and impressive condition today.
4 SS GREAT BRITAIN, BRISTOL
Just one of Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s great accomplishments, the magnificent Great Britain was the first transatlantic screw-prop passenger liner—a model of luxury and sophistication for its day, and now restored to its former glory in drydock.
5 HMY BRITANNIA, EDINBURGH
The Royal yacht Britannia was launched in 1953 and served as a home afloat for Her Majesty and the Royal family for more than 44 years. The last in a line of Royal yachts going back to 1660 lies at berth in Leith Harbor, one of Edinburgh’s most popular visitor attractions.
6 HMS VICTORY, PORTSMOUTH
The oldest commissioned warship in the world, Victory’s prime claim to fame is as lord nelson’s flagship in the 1805 Battle of Trafalgar. Struck by musket fire, Nelson died on the orlop deck. Now undergoing its first complete restoration in years, Victory remains open to visit.
7 HMS BELFAST, LONDON
Permanently moored in the Pool of London above Tower Bridge, the cruiser Belfast was commissioned in 1938 and saw action throughout World War II. It’s now an excellent museum ship depicting life on board ship and at war across nine decks. Open daily.
8 CUTTY SARK, GREENWICH
Fire came very near to destroying Cutty Sark in 2006. Following a massive restoration and reconstruction, the famous tea clipper is back in berth, better than ever, with pride of place on the Greenwich riverfront; take the Thames clipper to Greenwich pier.
9 GOLDEN HIND, BRIXHAM
Yes, this one is an accurate replica of Sir Francis Drake’s galleon that circled the globe in 1577 to 1580. Somehow, it’s no less fun to explore the Golden Hind’s five decks—afloat in Brixton Harbor and attracting film crews and visitors since 1968.
10 HMS ALLIANCE, GOSPORT
Take a five-minute ferry ride across Portsmouth Harbor to Gosport and a visit to the National Submarine Museum. Tour the Alliance, Britain’s only World War II–era sub still afloat. It’s a great visit, but these days, don’t smoke if you got ’em.
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DANA HUNTLEY
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DANA HUNTLEY
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