350 Years Later, London’s Landscape Still Evidences the Great Fire of 1666

Thomas Bloodworth, Lord Mayor of London, was unimpressed. “A woman could piss it out,” he huffed, readjusting his nightcap and pulling the sheets over his head. Even Samuel Pepys, London’s greatest diarist, went back to bed after noting a minor blaze across town in his journal for Sunday, September 2, 1666. Fires were common in a city of wooden buildings and open hearths.

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Diarist Samuel Pepys left the most famous account of the Great Fire.[/caption]

The dawn revealed this was no common fire, however. A little bakery in Pudding Lane had entered history for all the wrong reasons, despite its owner Thomas Farynor’s insistence he’d damped down properly. Unfriendly winds had blown a simple oven fire into riverside warehouses full of oil and tallow. Over the next four days, seven-eighths of the City just disappeared into smoke, including 13,000 houses, 87 churches, St. Paul’s Cathedral and London’s only bridge, itself covered in shops and dwellings. The capital had not seen devastation like it since Boudicca’s revolt against the Romans in AD 60 and would not see devastation like it again until the Blitz.
Just six lives were claimed, though many died afterwards during violent retributions. Generally, though, the fire moved slowly and people had time to escape.

Samuel Pepys and his wife watched London burn from a boat in the middle of the Thames, until the wind changed and the sky showered them with sparks. They repaired to the Anchor Inn on the South Bank, which is still a lovely pub today. Later, Sam famously went back across the river to bury his wine and Parmesan cheese for safekeeping. The Museum of London’s “Fire! Fire!” exhibition will include a half-finished embroidery panel put away by its anonymous owner during the fire and never completed.

Pepys notes proudly that he himself reported the fire’s progress to King Charles II, advising the demolition of buildings to contain the damage. The king took Pepys’s advice and was even seen helping to tackle the blaze himself.

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In the shadow of the Gherkin, St. Andrew Undershaft was a post-fire Wren church.[/caption]

Eventually the wind changed and the fire burnt itself out—a few yards before reaching the Tower of London, home to 600 tons of gunpowder.

The ground was so hot it couldn’t be walked on for days, but the arguments had already begun. Some 65,000 people were homeless, and since there was no insurance, as ruined as their houses. The Royal Surveyor, Christopher Wren, was asked to oversee the City’s resurrection. Many hopeful architects submitted plans. Most adopted a radical, no-nonsense grid plan. Wren’s own suggestion saw a peacock’s tail of boulevards fanning out from a monument erected on the spot where Thomas Farynor’s oven had started all the trouble.

Nothing above ground survived intact. One or two stone churches clung to a few blackened walls, but on the whole it was a blank canvas—with caveats. Major caveats.

There were just far too many individually-owned parcels of land dotted around higgledy-piggledy alleys, courtyards and passageways, usually only a few feet across.

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The Guildhall survived the Great Fire almost unscathed.[/caption]

No one was going to give up their square inch without a fight. Fire judges were appointed to keep the peace among angry people that had lost everything. The 22 referees were painted to avoid impersonation fraud—one portrait, of Sir Hugh Wyndham, survives in the Guildhall.

With the exception of one new road, the City was rebuilt on more or less the same chaotic street plan it had originally. Strict rules were enforced. Houses had to be built in brick; wealthier owners were allowed stone around doors and windows, but in return they had to create a first-floor balcony with a sloping “pent house” to protect pedestrians from rain. Thatched roofs were outlawed, a ban still in place today. When Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre was built in 1997, special permission was required for its circular thatched roof.

Very few original post-fire private buildings survive. Thrown up by bad builders with poor quality materials, they collapsed almost as quickly as they were built. What we do have are public and semi-public buildings. One of the first rebuilds, a stone’s throw from St. Pauls, is the Royal College of Arms, built in handsome, dark brick with gilded gates. Most livery halls had been rebuilt by the 1670s; surviving examples include the Skinners’, Vintners’ and Apothecaries’ halls.

Wren may have lost his building plan, but he got his Monument. He and his friend, City Surveyor Robert Hooke, both fanatical astronomers, sneakily built the column as the secret casing for a zenith telescope, with spiral steps coiling around the instrument and a hinge-lidded urn at the opening to the sky. Sadly the rumble of traffic on Fish Hill rendered it unusable. The Great Fire’s other monument is much smaller. High on a building on Pye Corner in Giltspur Street where the fire stopped, lives the Golden Boy, a symbol of the Sin of Gluttony, the “cause” of the fire.

Wren had 51 parish churches to rebuild, and although, thanks to the Luftwaffe, just 23 remain, they are instantly recognisable. Each Wren church, built using a new, very unpopular tax on coal, had its own distinct flavor, lending the City its unique skyline. Taking the original ground plans and anything left—crypt, tower or parts of wall, for example—Wren created something new, evening-out wonky lines to create regular interiors. He preferred the baroque style, radical in its day, but he wasn’t philistine. If enough of a Gothic church remained, he’d build and ornament in that style instead.

Wren worked with Hooke, but he snaffled St. Paul’s Cathedral for himself. After being told there was no way he would be allowed to have a “popish” dome, Wren put up giant hoardings so no one could see him constructing exactly that. Happily, he wouldn’t touch the cheap Blackheath gravel everyone else was using, and the cathedral was built to exacting standards. It was declared finished in 1711, and remains one of London’s most striking buildings.

There are some true survivors in the City. Outlasting both the Great Fire and the Blitz, they form quite an eclectic mix of styles and purposes.

Although All Hallows by the Tower dates back to 675, when fire broke out it was virtually brand new after being rebuilt following an explosion. Samuel Pepys climbed its tower to watch the fire.
Built in 1411, the Guildhall needed repairs to its roof, but since it was at the edge of the fire, didn’t suffer too badly. Unfortunately, its roof was hit again during World War II. The only private house to survive the flames was 41-42 Cloth Fair, built between 1597 and 1614, and sheltered behind the high walls of a nearby priory. St. Katherine Cree church was very new when fire broke out. There was enough of it left afterwards, however, to house a soup kitchen for builders. Its rose window was based on the lost old St. Pauls Cathedral.

Old Wine Shades, originally a merchant’s house, is now a wine bar. The wooden frontage is darkly lovely. Nip round the side to see a strange memento of its next door neighbor, lost to the Blitz: a rusting cast-iron safe and pigeonholes still sunk into the wall 70-odd years later. The Hoop and Grapes was far enough west to laugh at the flames. It’s a busy pub, but worth a visit.

Most fire survivors are just outside the City. The black-andwhite Tudor frontage of Staple Inn straddles the boundary. Along Fleet Street, Prince Henry’s Room is another Tudor building and Middle Temple, in the legal labyrinth behind its great wooden gate, has been a liberty (not controlled by the City) since the 13th century.

St. Bartholomew the Great, one of the most atmospheric churches in London, looks every inch of its 900 years. Its Tudor gatehouse was thought lost for centuries until a World War I zeppelin sheared away the unexciting Georgian facade.

The fire had a number of unexpected consequences, not all of them bad. A year after the Great Plague, the disease was on its way out, but fire killed it off for good. Displaced people moved west, hastening the development of the West End, and not long after the fire, Edward Lloyd, on opening a new-fangled coffee house in one of the medieval passageways, found himself host for another innovation—insurance. There’s a commemorative plaque in Lombard Street, where the coffee house really took off. Insurance companies began tentative fire brigades. They would only attend blazes at insured premises, many of which still carry metal identification marks today.

In the Great Fire’s aftermath, a Frenchman, who hadn’t even been in London at the time (but had the misfortune of being Roman Catholic), was executed for arson. Thomas Farynor, the baker, must have been very relieved. His livery company, however, the Worshipful Company of Bakers, did get an attack of guilt and apologize for starting the fire—in 1986. Better late than never.

Two Great Fire Exhibitions

Samuel Pepys: Plague, Fire, Revolution at The National Maritime Museum – to March 28, 2016
Fire! Fire! at The Museum of London. Opens July 23, 2016

City Alleys and Passageways



One legacy of post-fire wrangles is the crazy tangle of alleyways throughout the City. Many look too small, private or closed, but even those with fancy iron gates are often legitimate passageways. If in doubt, watch the alley for a minute; you’ll almost certainly see City workers flitting in and out of them. You might find a tiny garden, an ancient pub, a curious plaque, a ruined church tower.

Simpsons Tavern, Ball Court AlleyOne of the oldest eateries in the country, Simpsons still has its original private booths.

Turkish Baths, Bishopsgate ChurchyardMinute, art nouveau baths in an alley through old Bishopsgate Churchyard that somehow survived both the Blitz and the IRA bombs of the 1990s.

Watling StreetA tiny section of the ancient Roman trackway running between Dover and Wroxeter was rediscovered during Wren’s rebuild. A delightful, cobbled lane, full of interesting little shops.

George & Vulture, Castle CourtA genuine Dickensian chop-house, hardly changed since the author himself drank there on a regular basis.

Jamaica Wine House, St. Michael’s AlleyStarted life as the first coffee house in London, now a popular wine bar.