Cathedrals and cobblestones, mustard and the Cocoa Café
NORWICH HERITAGE ECONOMIC & REGENERATION TRUST
WWW.VISITNORWICH.CO.UK
Imagine a city center as pretty as a picture postcard, with medieval churches, quaint streets and alleys, two magnificent cathedrals, a renowned outdoor market and an ancient castle; you will have depicted Norwich, Norfolk, which is about 100 miles northeast of London. From medieval times to the Industrial Revolution, Norwich was the second greatest city in England—made rich by the wool trade. Today, Norwich is Norfolk’s county town, and enhances its historic architecture and rich past with a university, cultural institutions and numerous independently owned stores that offer terrific shopping. This city always enchants and pleasantly surprises first-time visitors. www.visitnorwich.co.uk
How to get to Norwich
There is frequent direct train service from London’s Liverpool Station to Norwich. The journey takes about two hours, and it is an easy 10-minute walk from the Norwich station to the city center. If you’re making a day trip from London, get a Day Return ticket. These tickets must be used outside of rush hours, but are less expensive than unrestricted tickets. Go to www.nationalrail.co.uk for train schedules and fare prices.
What to see
Visit iconic Norwich Cathedral, with the second tallest spire in England, which dates to 1096. It’s considered one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Europe. As you enter the cathedral, the long nave and triple arcade of white stone are most impressive. Look up at the superb vaulting of the stone roof. Be sure to see the delightful cloisters, which are the largest in England. Wander around the Cathedral Close, an idyllic spot with a path leading down to the ancient water gate known as Pulls Ferry. Said David Strowger, a volunteer at the cathedral for more than a decade, “It is a privilege to work in such a beautiful and peaceful place.”
Norwich is one of the few cities to have two cathedrals. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. John the Baptist at the top of Grapes Hill was completed in the early 20th century and is an architectural masterpiece. Climb the tower for outstanding views across Norwich.
Norwich Castle, with its fairy tale location at the top of a hill, has dominated the city’s skyline for more than 1,000 years. Today, it is a museum of the city through the ages. Make time to visit the gallery devoted to the works by the Norwich School of Artists, who focused on common landscapes and seascapes. Walk around the outside of the castle for more brilliant sweeping views of the city.
Step into one of the many medieval churches that are scattered around the heart of Norwich. For instance, the Church of St. Peter Mancroft on Millennium Plain is a splendid 15th-century parish church that is among the largest in England. The lovely medieval glass in the East Window was created by East Anglian glass painters and is a fine example of Norwich glass.
Be sure to stroll along Elm Hill, the city’s most famous medieval street, and perhaps my favorite place in Norwich. This unique narrow cobblestone street that curves like the letter “S” is lined with pastel-colored houses restored to look as they did in Tudor times. Today, these houses are occupied by booksellers, antique shops and art galleries, and Elm Hill is frequently used as a film set for TV and movie productions.
‘Norwich Castle, with its fairy tale location at the top of a hill, has dominated the city’s skyline for more than 1,000 years’
NORWICH HERITAGE ECONOMIC & REGENERATION TRUST
DANA HUNTLEY
WWW.VISITNORWICH.CO.UK
Norwich Market, the biggest outdoor market in England, has dozens of stalls with colored canvas rooftops and is open daily Monday through Saturday. It has existed for more than 900 years and offers everything from clothing to food to jewelry.
Where to eat
Adam and Eve on Bishopsgate is Norwich’s oldest pub, dating back to 1249. It began trade serving the generations of builders who worked on Norwich Cathedral. The Adam & Eve serves traditional British dishes like beef and mushroom pie. www.adamandevenorwich.co.uk
An upscale favorite for lunch or dinner is Roger Hickman’s Restaurant, at 79 Upper St. Giles Street, with its emphasis on modern British cuisine. www.rogerhickmansrestaurant.com
The Dining Rooms at Cinema City, one of the country’s first art-house cinemas, serves delicious food in a beautiful setting on St. Andrew’s Street. www.picturehouses.co.uk/cinema/Cinema_City
‘Opening its doors in 1249, the oldest of Norwich’s pubs, the Adam and Eve, served generations of workers who built Norwich Cathedral’
WWW.VISITNORWICH.CO.UK
Afternoon tea
Jarrold, Norwich’s popular department store on the corner of London Street, serves a fabulous afternoon tea with cakes, sandwiches, scones with jam and clotted cream and, of course, a pot of tea.
A very nice afternoon tea is also served within the Assembly House, a stunning Georgian building on Theatre Street that is now an arts center.
Where to shop
The Norwich Lanes, Elm Hill and the Royal Arcade, an Art Nouveau covered walkway that was built in 1899, all offer a variety of small independent shops with something for everyone.
Jarrold, which is the same family-run independent department store that has been serving the people of Norwich since 1823, offers a broad selection of merchandise at its London Street location. www.jarrold.co.uk
NORWICH HERITAGE ECONOMIC & REGENERATION TRUST
Nestled into 15 Royal Arcade is The Mustard Shop, a delightful replica of a typical Victorian shop. Colman’s Mustard was founded in Norwich in the early 19th century, and this shop sells a variety of its mustards and other related products. www.colmansmustardshop.com
Caley’s has been making chocolates in Norwich since 1883 and sells its delicious candies at the Caley’s Cocoa Café., which is located within the 15th century Guildhall. www.caleys.com/aboutcocoacafe
The Book Hive at 53 London Street in Norwich Lanes is an independent bookshop. Its owner, Henry Layte, reflects fondly about his city: “Norwich is not only a physically beautiful city with a wealth of fine and important architecture, but it also has a thriving community feel. With the arts school and university, and countless other cultural institutions, it is a wonderful place to live and work, and has an atmosphere unlike many other cities. There is a wealth of independent shops and businesses, which help form its unique character, and a large population who have moved here, as well as longterm residents, students and tourists. It is also surrounded by some of England’s most beautiful countryside and coastline.” www.thebookhive.co.uk
Something that may surprise you
It is always a wonder to me that more visitors don’t find their way to this gem of a city with so much to see and do, and so easily accessible on foot. Each May, the city spills over with performing artists as the Norfolk and Norwich Festival stages live events over a 16-day period. If you’ve never been to Norwich, you are definitely in for a treat!
IN THE VICINITY
Take a ride into the unique landscape and ecosystem of the Norfolk Broads with its abundant waterfowl, northeast to Wroxham on the River Bure or east along the River Yare to the historic port of Great Yarmouth.