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THERE IS A VERY TRENDY, modern champagne bar called Vertigo 42 with a secret. The fizzy is, of course, excellent (though admittedly the snacks won’t fill you up, even if they empty your wallet) but few visitors are there solely for the beverages. For this tiny gem, right at the very top of what used to be known as the Nat West Tower—the angular building next door to the newer Gherkin in The City—provides probably the best static aerial view of London that the general public have any kind of hope of seeing. Even then, for safety reasons following the recent terrorist attacks, you need to book in advance. The view—almost exactly in line with Oxford Street to the west, stretching out to Alexandra Palace, Wembley and The Chilterns in the northwest, to Crystal Palace in the south and the curve of the Thames to the east—is staggering. We carefully timed our visit to arrive just before dusk and made our drinks last (well, actually we got a second bottle of bubbly, but don’t tell…) until well after all the lights went on across the city for a fabulously romantic evening.
VERTIGO 42
25 Old Broad Street
Every so often an exhibition arrives of such breathtaking beauty that even as I’m walking round, I’m planning my next visit. The Golden Age of Couture at the V&A is one such. Taking Christian Dior’s postwar New Look as a starting point, the exhibition covers the glory years of high-end fashion from 1947 through 1957, with plenty of drawings, fabric samples, newsreels and accessories to supplement the hefty collection of big-name original garments gorgeously displayed in sleek lines and exquisite simplicity. I spent so long going round the press preview that I actually got thrown out by bleary-eyed guards wanting to go home, but I booked to take my mum the following week. Guys may choose to bring a good book.
THE GOLDEN AGE OF COUTURE
Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Road
Perhaps more fun for the discerning gentleman (and lady) is the brand-new Casino at the Empire in Leicester Square. For years it was the famous Empire Ballroom, with its iconic art deco arch and attendant cinema, but these days Texas Hold ’em and roulette wheels have taken the place of foxtrots and tangos. The one thing that the Empire isn’t, though, is tacky. In a play to recreate the classy days of gaming, the effect is more James Bond than pachinko parlor. It’s in the small things that the difference really shows. The female croupiers wear long dresses, and the male dealers are noticeably smart. The ghastly electronic sound of modern gaming floors is reassuringly absent. Surrounding the floor sit various bars and restaurants, with friendly, attentive waiters. Your editor and I were just enjoying a cocktail, chatting to our barman, when suddenly I felt like a character from a Frank Sinatra movie, ready to burst into song. Altogether, now—“So set ’em up Joe, I gotta little story I think you should know….”
THE CASINO AT THE EMPIRE
Leicester Square
Few people associate The National Trust with “country” houses inside London, but the little-known Fenton House in Hamp-stead is truly memorable. It’s possibly my favorite NT property; a 16th-century merchant’s house open from ground floor to attic, and stuffed full of porcelain and ancient musical instruments. The reason I love it so much is that it is somewhere I could actually believe Elizabeth Bennett living in Pride and Prejudice, complete with several ravishing Regency rooms and charming views. Outside, in the little walled garden, formal parterres and walkways mingle with a fully working kitchen garden and an orchard full of heirloom apples—a perfect “wilderness” for Lady Catherine deBurgh to vent her frustration on Lizzie. I try to visit at least once a year.
FENTON HOUSE
Windmill Hill, Hampstead
While in Hampstead, a walk at least a short way onto the heath is almost obligatory. My latest find is The Freemasons Arms—a beautiful walk from Fenton House. I recommend taking time to get there—take an A-Z and winkle a winding route down the charming little lanes of Old Hampstead, if only to see the sort of area that many Londoners secretly aspire to live in, despite anything they might say.
THE FREEMASONS ARMS
32 Downshire Hill, Hampstead Heath
The Freemasons Arms is an old country pub just on the edge of the heath. Built in Strawberry Hill Gothic style, it’s a traditional pub that has been tastefully renovated to create a modern pan-European restaurant. And although some purists grumble about the growing trend toward gastropubs, there’s no denying this place—cunning combination of ancient and modern—is popular. We went on a Monday night and it was already bustling—testimony, perhaps to the number of awards it’s been winning recently. I always find that pubs that have to rely on repeat local custom work that bit harder and The Freemasons Arms is a good bet for getting away from the tourist trail. The food is simple but well-executed—hearty portions, excellent basic ingredients and with a chef that listens to instructions about steaks.
While beer on tap is a marvelous thing, I was a bit concerned to see wine going the same way. I am relieved to report they carry a respectable selection of bottled wines as well as the bog-standard basics on tap at the bar. We took a different route back to Hamp-stead tube—just so we could admire some more of the lovely architecture in the area.
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COURTESY OF CASINO AT THE EMPIRE
Finally, for my birthday, my wonderful partner decided I needed a treat of the feminine variety. Rigby & Peller’s Royal Warrant describes them as corsetiere to HM Queen Elizabeth II, but their hallowed portals in Mayfair have welcomed royalty, toffs, celebrities and the odd yokel like myself since 1939. Its sumptuous black-painted exterior turns into a veritable chocolate box inside, where the air is one of muted sophistication. You can just turn up off the street, but you will be given an unceremonious numbered ticket and told to wait your turn. If you can manage to book beforehand, however, you will be swept to the front of the queue and treated like HM herself.
I had heard alarming stories about R&P’s terrifying matrons who take one disapproving look at you and stomp off to find exquisite frilly knickers or scary boned satin ensembles. And it is true that here, Measuring Is For Wimps. Everything is done by eye (and yes, “my” lady was right first time) and beautiful garments keep arriving until you find your personal perfect frilly nothing. I walked out clutching a beribboned bag full of very expensive lacy fripperies and feeling like a million dollars.
RIGBY & PELLER’S
22A Conduit Street
Next time I’ll be on the town again and trying a possibly lethal combination of dominoes and daiquiries.
THIS MONTH’S CONTACTS
Vertigo 42
Booking in advance is a must at www.vertigo42.com
The Golden Age of Couture
www.vam.ac.uk
The Casino at the Empire
www.thecasinolsq.com
Fenton House
www.nationaltrust.org.uk
The Freemasons Arms
www.freemasonsarms.co.uk
Rigby & Peller’s
+44 (0) 845 076 5545
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