The Great Trio By Train

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The Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain near the Serpentine in Hyde Park cools many a tired foot.[/caption]

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Britain’s intercity rail services make getting around the country fast and comfortable.[/caption]

HERE’S AN EASY itinerary for seeing the great capitals of Britain by train. The rail journey from London to Edinburgh provides a wonderful, if swiftly changing, panorama of the country, and after the capitals, even mighty York will feel like a small town.

Day 1–Arrival Day in London

After a morning arrival at London’s Heathrow or Gatwick airport, there are several options for getting into town. The Express train in to central London is by far the easiest. Resist the temptation to plan too ambitiously today, but napping beyond an hour or two makes adjusting to the time change more difficult. Explore the local neighborhood, take a stroll in beautiful Hyde Park or pop down to the Visitor Centre on Regent Street, just south of Piccadilly Circus, for maps, brochures, guides and sundry tickets. After a light supper, you’ll be ready to retire a little early tonight.

Day 2–London: World-class and Friendly

If you have done London panoramic sightseeing before, you might get a refreshing overview of the city with a ride on the London Eye or on the Thames. Pick up a boat at Westminster Bridge or Charing Cross pier. An Oyster card is the most efficient way to get around by Underground or bus. Check out the amazing top 10 free visits in London on p. 14. This evening, perhaps try one of the city’s great ethnic restaurants, explore the nightlife of Soho or take in a concert.

Day 3–By Train to Edinburgh

The easiest and least expensive way to do this journey is with a 3-day Britrail Flex-pass (www.acprailnet.com/britrail). Trains leave every hour from Kings Cross station for Edinburgh. Roughly 41/2 hours will have you at Waverley Station in the heart of “Auld Reekie.” Catch a taxi to your hotel, or climb Cockburn Steps to Princes Street and pay a visit to Edinburgh’s fantastic tourist information center, for street maps, brochures and a look at what’s going on in the city. The center also has public internet access in case you want to check your email.

Day 4–Edinburgh

“The Athens of the North,” Edinburgh offers a wealth of Scottish history, art, music and great photo opportunities. The Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, Holyroodhouse and the New Town, Jennifer Dorn’s feature on page 50 should provide plenty of inspiration.

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Laurence Olivier guards the South Bank near the National Theatre.[/caption]

Day 5–To York

It’s three hours by train to York. York Station is just outside the medieval city walls. A taxi will whisk you to your nearby hotel, or follow the wall toward York Minster and take a left at St. Leonard’s Place to the very helpful tourist information center. York is very manageable on foot, with everything to see within easy walking distance. One obvious destination is the majestic Minster. You can catch choral evensong with the Minster Choir at 5:15. Unforgettable.

Day 6–York

It would take several days to thoroughly explore northern England’s ancient “capital.” You can prioritize your visit to the National Railway Museum, the Castle Museum, the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall and much more with our story “Eboracum to Jorvik to York,” May p. 34.

Day 7–A Quick Journey Back to London

Every train trip is made easier if you plan to start after 9 a.m. By then, the business travelers and commuters are on their way. It’s just about two hours back to London King’s Cross. Life is easier if you book the same London hotel; you’ll receive a warm welcome back, and you’ll already know the neighborhood. It won’t take you long to get out and about. This evening, it doesn’t get any better than West End theater, or try one of the famous old English eating houses, like Rules or Porters.

Day 8–On the Town in London

With a full free day in London, you probably already have an agenda. The National Portrait Gallery, the V&A, St. Paul’s Cathedral or Borough Market: one is only spoiled for choice. If you absolutely must go to the Changing of the Guard, skip the crowded forecourt of Buckingham Palace and put up on Birdcage Walk, where the band and guard come out of the barracks on parade. The Marble Arch end of Oxford Street is where to find Selfridges and other huge department stores. How energetic you’ll be this evening may depend on how early you need to depart in the morning. There’s always a pub nearby!

Day 9–All Good Things Come to This

There may be time for some last minute sightseeing before you need to head back to the airport. Plan ahead. Or from Paddington, catch a train to Devon and Cornwall.